When will my car be paid off
- 1 when will my car be paid off
- 2 Car paid off in Maryland? What to do with the Security Interest Filing and Title
- 2.1 Line in the Sand: Starting Over Again Financially
- 2.2 10 Tips to Prepare Your Home for the Market
- 2.3 3 Ways To Reduce Your Grocery Bill
- 2.4 You#8217;ve Earned It: How to Enjoy your Wealth
- 2.5 Saving for a Rainy Day: Making Sure You’re.
- 2.6 Do College Students Need Insurance?
- 3 I pay when someone destroys my car
- 4 My New Used Car #8211; Almost Paid Off
- 5 My Vehicle is a Write-off #8211; Now What?
when will my car be paid off
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I#39;m upside down on my car loan and need a different car, what can I do?
I purchased a used 2009 Camry back in 2012 after financing with Toyota Financial Services. The terms of the deal were 16k financed at 6% for 72 months. When I signed the paperwork however, I noticed that the amount financed changed to 18k something and the APR to 2.42%. When I asked the finance manager about it he said it added up to the same payment amount at the end, which it did. I didn't think too much about it because I confirmed that the amount paid at the end of the loan was the same. However, I failed to understand the long term implication this would have. V-e-r-y dumb mistake on my part. Yes, I was an idiot.
Now three years into the loan, I've moved to the North East, where I'm battling snowstorms and blizzards from hell. Due to the pains associated with driving to work in the snow, I'm trying to get an All Wheel Drive instead. Now seeing that the amount financed was more, the payoff amount on the car is of course more. Is there anything I can do with Toyota Financial (or anyone) about this? I'm way upside down on the loan right now; the car is worth 9k according to KBB and the payoff amount is 10,400.
My financial situation has improved a bit (from a FICO score of 593 in Aug 2012 to 701 right now) and I've gotten a few quotes for 0% APRs for new cars so I'm quite interested in pursuing those options if I can somehow settle this issue with my Camry's payments.
There are a few things you should keep in mind when getting another vehicle:
DON'T use dealership financing. Get an idea of the price range you're looking for, and go to your local bank or find a local credit union and get a pre-approval for a loan amount (that will also let you know what kind of interest rates you'll get). Your credit score is high enough that you shouldn't have any problems securing a decent APR.
Check your financing institution's rules on financing beyond the vehicle's value. The CU that refinanced my car noted that between 100% and 120% of the vehicle's value means an additional 2% APR for the life of the loan. Value between 120% and 130% incurred an additional 3% APR.
Your goal here is to have the total amount of the loan less than or equal to the value of the car through the sale / trade-in of your current vehicle, and paying off whatever's left out of pocket (either as a down-payment, or simply paying off the existing loan).
If you can't manage that, then you're looking at immediately being upside-down on the new vehicle, with a potential APR penalty.
I am new to the site and hope I can help! We just purchased a used car a few weeks ago and used dealer's finance again so that's not the issue here. I want to focus on what you can do to resolve your issue and not focus on the mistakes that were made.
1 - DO NOT PURCHASE A NEW CAR! Toyota Camrys are great cars that will last forever. I live in Rochester, NY and all you need is snow tires for the winter as ChrisInEdmonton suggested. This will make a world of difference. Also, when you get a car wash get an under-spray treatment for salt and rust (warm climate cars don't usually come with this treatment).
2 - Focus on paying this loan off. Pay extra to the monthly note, put any bonuses you get to the note. Take lunches to work to save money so you can pay extra. I'm not sure if you put any money down but your monthly note should be around $300? I would try putting $400+ down each month until it is paid off. Anything you can do. But, do not buy a new car until this one is fully paid off!
Let me know if this helps! Thanks!
Dealerships make a lot of money in the finance department. One of the thing they play upon is your emotional reaction of purchasing a new vehicle (new to you in this case). They perform all sorts of shenanigans, like adding undercoat, selling gap insurance, or extended warranties. They entice you with a promise of a lower interest rate, but really what they are trying to do is back you into a payment.
So if you can fiance 20,000, but the car you are buying is 16,000, then they will try to move that figure up to the 20K mark. In your case it sounded like some borderline (at the least) illegal activity they used to fool you into paying more. It sounds like you regret this decision which puts you a step ahead of most. How many people brag about the extended warranty or gap insurance they got included in the sale?
As mentioned in another answer the best bet is to go into the dealership with financing in place. Say you were able to get a 3% loan on 16K. The total interest would be
1600. If you avoid the finance room, you might avoid their dubious add ons that would probably cost you more then the 1600 even if you can get 0%.
If you are going to buy a car on time, my advice would be to not fill out a credit app at the dealership. The dealership people through a conniption fit, but hold your ground. If need be get up and walk out. They won't let you leave.
One thing I must mention, is that one feels very wealthy without that monthly pain in the a$$ payment for a car. You may want to try and envision yourself without a car payment, and make steps to making that a reality for the rest of your life.
NEVER buy a car based on the payment. When dealers start negotiating, they always try to have you focus on the monthly payment. This allows them to change the numbers for your trade, the price they are selling the car for, etc so that they maximize the amount of money they can get. To combat this you need to educate yourself on how much total money you are willing to spend for the vehicle, then, if you need financing, figure out what that actually works out to on a monthly basis.
NEVER take out a 6 year loan. Especially on a used car. If you can't afford a used car with at most a 3 year note (paying cash is much better) then you can't really afford that car. The longer the note term, the more money you are throwing away in interest. You could have simply bought a much cheaper car, drove it for a couple years, then paid CASH for a new(er) one with the money you saved.
Now, as to the amount you are upside down and that you are looking at new cars. $1400 isn't really that bad. (note: Yes you were taken to the cleaners.) Someone mentioned that banks will sometimes loan up to 20% above MSRP. This is true depending on your credit, but it's a very bad idea because you are purposely putting yourself in the exact same position (worse actually).
However, you shouldn't need to worry about that. It is trivial to negotiate such that you pay less than sticker for a new car while trading yours in, even with that deficit. Markup on vehicles is pretty insane. When I sold, it was usually around 20% for foreign and up to 30% for domestic: that leaves a lot of wiggle room.
When buying a used car, most dealers ask for at least $3k more than what they bought them for. Sometimes much more than that depending on blue book (loan) value or what they managed to talk the previous owner out of.
Either way, a purchase can swallow that $1400 without making it worse. Buy accordingly.
Car paid off in Maryland? What to do with the Security Interest Filing and Title
We recently paid off our Malibu loan with a credit card balance transfer. Not only did this reduce our interest rate from 5.85% to 1.99%, it also meant we paid off the lien on our car and were entitled to receive the full title and ownership.
Shortly after paying off the loan, we received a document from the bank that looks exactly like the blue Certificate of Title, but it#8217;s red. This is called the Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing.
Since this is the first car I#8217;ve ever paid off in full, I was wondering what to do next. In addition, we#8217;re pondering selling the Malibu, so we#8217;ll need to know what documentation we#8217;ll need. I couldn#8217;t find any simple answers for my questions, so I decided to call the Maryland MVA directly. And then I decided to write it down for all of you.
What is the difference between a Security Interest Filing and the Certificate of Title
In Maryland, if you took out a bank loan (a lien) on you car, the bank is issued the #8220;Notice of Security Interest Filing#8221;, while you are issued the #8220;Certificate of Title#8221;. Your title will list your bank as the lienholder, and you can#8217;t do anything with the vehicle (sell, trade) without the red Security Interest Filing document issued to you.
When will I get the Security Interest Filing?
At any time you pay off your car loan in cash or non-auto loan, the lienholder will release this semi-title to you. An example of a non-auto loan is a credit card transfer or a home equity loan.
What do I need to sell my vehicle?
I highly recommend calling the Maryland MVA directly or visiting their title FAQ site as your situation may differ, but for our 2005 Chevy Malibu, when it comes time to sell, we#8217;ll need the following:
- original Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing (the #8220;Red#8221; one)
- original Maryland Certificate of Title (the #8220;Blue#8221; one)
- a notarizedBill of Sale form
What do I give to the buyer?
According to the MVA website:
Always Provide to the Buyer the Original Title, and the Original Security of Interest Filing, so that the Buyer Will Have Evidence that the Vehicle Being Sold Has Been Paid Off in Order to Obtain the New Title
Also, you#8217;ll want to fill out the back of the Certificate of Title per the MVA#8217;s instructions:
The seller must sign and print his or her name and the buyer’s name and address on the back side of the “Certificate of Title” under the “Assignment of Ownership” section. The buyer’s name and address must be recorded in the “Assignment of Ownership” section to complete the sale. Without the name, the title is considered “open” and will not be recognized by the MVA for registration.
Ok, so I give them all this stuff, then what do I need to do?
After you#8217;ve given the buyer all required documentation (be sure to check with the MVA for your situation), and you#8217;ve ensured their payment method was valid, then
- Head to the MVA and drop off your license plates.li9gt;
- Then cancel your insurance
Do not cancel your insurance before turning in your plates. It#8217;s against the law
Maryland law is extremely strict and uninsured motorist fines begin at $150 for the first day a vehicle is not insured. Unless the seller is transferring the plates to another vehicle, return the license plates to the MVA and retain the receipt, before canceling the insurance coverage on the vehicle.
Disclaimer: It should be clear by now that you need to call the MVA for your specific situation. Cars older than 7 years fall under different rules, and I#8217;m sure commercial vehicles have other rules. Just call them to be safe!
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Line in the Sand: Starting Over Again Financially
10 Tips to Prepare Your Home for the Market
3 Ways To Reduce Your Grocery Bill
You#8217;ve Earned It: How to Enjoy your Wealth
Saving for a Rainy Day: Making Sure You’re.
Do College Students Need Insurance?
What was your balance transfer fee? If it was 0, i#8217;d say that this was a good decision. So does this mean you are planning on getting rid of the malibu?
The fee was $75, but I saved that much in interest over just a couple months. I also took out a few thousand extra and stuck it in a 6% savings account to try to recoup some more.
If you#8217;re in the market for a Malibu, let me know. Otherwise, we have to do some serious thought on the impact of selling it. We#8217;d probably want to get a tune-up on the pontiac and check it for potential failure before committing though.
[#8230;] credit union this morning after faxing over the notarized bill of sale, copy of the title and security interest filing. The lady was very pleasant and let me know all they need now is for Duane#8217;s insurance [#8230;]
Thank you so much for the information, I too have just paid off my loan in Maryland and received the security interest filing certificate and I had no idea what to do with it. Now I know, I#8217;m glad you posted this valuable information otherwise I thought I would have to go to the DMV and waste hours of time.
This is exactly the situation I found myself in. Your article was very helpful and was the first one that came up when I googled #8220;Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing.#8221; In my case, I am not selling my car, but just wanted to know whether I needed to apply for a new title. My course of action is to take my Notice of Filing and Group it with my Title in the safety deposit box.
Hi this was very informative but there seems to be a catch-22, if you have a car that is financed and you want to sell it, it appears you need to pay-off the loan before you can sell it, but most people (assuming what the balance is) may need to sell the car before they can pay-off the loan. What#8217;s a seller (or buyer) to do in this situation? With a house, you have a loan closing that is simultaneous, i.e. the buyer#8217;s loan pays-off the seller#8217;s loan. Is there any way that Maryland used car buyer safely buy a car from someone who hasn#8217;t paid-off their loan, thereby enabling the seller to clear the loan?
@Karl, in MD, you can sell the vehicle, sign over the title, pay off the loan, receive the security interest filing, sign that over and send it to the buyer.
Yes, the buyer must wait to register it in their name till they get it, but the title you signed over is proof of a pending transaction. Personally, I think it#8217;s a nice safeguard that the buyer#8217;s check is legit b/c the bank won#8217;t release the document until it clears.
Hi, this information is useful for my, but I would also like to know it was color the #8220;Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing#8221; in the year de1998. The above-mentioned is because I am expert and they are questioning me the authenticity of this document. I wait they can help me. Ahead of time, thank you.
@Anabel, I#8217;d say you would have to call the Maryland Vehicle Administration (MVA) to ask them (unless they#8217;re the ones questioning the authenticity).
I need to know what to do to get my lein release. Our truck has been paid off for 5 yrs and i guess never thought about the lein. We have never recieved a red release form. Someone tell me what I need to do.
@Joyce. Assuming you live in Maryland (other states#8217; rules differ), I suggest calling the bank/credit union with which you had the loan. They should have it on their records. If they can#8217;t find it, call your DMV. You#8217;ll need proof from your bank that you paid off the loan and they should provide the release form.
Thanks for the tips. I have been trying to contact the MVA for more then 3 hours. The line is always busy. After searching the web, I ran across your web site, which is very helpful. You have saved me a lot of time having to contact the MVA over and over again. Thanks a lot.
What is the official capacity on the lien.. what suppose to be written there when signing off the lien? Thanks
Hey, thanks for the helpful info. It was just what I was looking for.
But my case is somewhat complicated and I have been calling everywhere, still no solution.
I#8217;ve purchased a car in Georgia with financing (lien), then paid it off when I was living in Maryland. So I did receive the Notice of Interest Filing, but I never got the actual title and was lost by the bank that financed the car.
So I am stuck with a car that belongs to me with no way to prove that it is mine.
Any tips on what I should do? And about the Notice of Security Interest Filing, does it serve as a #8220;lien release#8221; or is that something else?
PK, sorry about your situation! I#8217;m not one to advise on this situation except to say that the titling rules depend on where you last titled the car. Therefore, if the car was bought and titled in Georgia, then this article about Maryland documents doesn#8217;t apply. If you had registered the car here in MD, then I believe it would, but it sounds like Georgia lost the title, so you have to track it down through them. Good luck!
Do you know how long it would take to receive the Maryland Security Interest Filing from the lienholder after you paid it off? 7days? or less or more than 7 days.
@Channida, I wouldn#8217;t expect it in less than 2-4 weeks.
@Clever Dude Thanks a lot for the post.
@Channida For a frame of reference: I paid off my car on May 10th, 2011. My Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing was signed on June 2, 2011. The envelope was postmarked June 6, 2011. I received it in the mail on June 8th.
Probably an important fact#8230; my lienholder was BBT.
I am extremely excited that you have posted information on this subject! I am a title clerk at a dealership and specifically deal with customers who trade in vehicles. I would like to add a few things that I believe are extremely important when trading in a vehicle.
First, if you are trading in a vehicle and have not yet paid off your loan, you may arrange a #8220;pay off#8221; with the dealership. This means the dealership will payoff the remaining balance on your loan with, of course, an exception: depending on how much you still owe, the dealership will either eat the expense and pay it off for you or they will add the balance into the amount you are financing/ owe (for cash deals) to create equity for you. In this case, you must provide the dealership with all of your account information as well as a signed form granting the dealership the right to pay off the vehicle (many banks, believe it or not, will NOT let the dealership payoff the car unless there is a signed document from the customer allowing them to payoff the loan). I know it sounds risky to tell you the dealership needs your account information but rest assured #8211; the reason we need this is so that we may contact the bank to verify the exact amount you still owe as many customers tend to #8220;round#8221;. If we send a payoff check for $2000 and you owed $2050 the bank will NOT contact the dealership for the remaining balance. Instead they will let the balance grow and harass our customers instead of calling us #8211; problem: we will never know we did not pay off the full amount owed.
Second, if a vehicle is being traded in to a dealership the customer must sign the back of the title as the seller. I cannot tell you how many customers sign as the buyer#8230;the title is in your name! You cannot sell a car to yourself! In cases where the customer has signed incorrectly, the dealership cannot use the title whatsoever so please, if you are afraid of signing incorrectly or are concerned about signing do not sign it at all! Every dealership will have a restricted power of attorney form that you may sign instead. In this case you are granting the dealership to sign the title for you. As a title clerk I can tell you what I do: I will hand print the names of the customers listed on the title and sign next to it with a #8220;POA#8221; after my signature. This means you have allowed me to sign the title for you. The power of attorney form will not allow me to do anything but this for you so again, rest assured, signing this form will not allow me to act for you in any other way! Many customers must sign this because they have titled their trade in another state. Unlike Maryland, out of state titles do not have lien release letters or Security Interest Filing documents. Instead, they send the dealership or customer the title with the lien release portion signed (this is called a #8220;1 part title#8221;) because the title does not come from the bank already signed by you, we must sign for you. (Once the loan is paid in full by the dealership, the title is mailed to us directly #8211; it is not sent to you because since the dealership paid off the loan #8211; we now owe the car which is correct since you have traded it in).
Lastly, the security interest filing (red document) is exactly what it says it is at the top: #8220;THIS IS NOT A TITLE#8221;. PLEASE do not sign the back of this document! Under absolutely no circumstance will anyone trading in a vehicle ever sign the back of this document. Think of things this way: When you buy a car and finance through, lets say Suntrust, the title issued to you will have your name at the top portion as the owner and will have Suntrust listed as the #8220;lienholder#8221;. Technically, you have not paid for the vehicle yet since you still owe money to Suntrust. The title, attached to the Security Interest Filing prove that you, and you alone (no more Suntrust) own that vehicle. You must have both documents in order to prove this to anyone (a dealership, Suntrust if they say you still owe money, etc.)
I am sorry for the extremely long post but I wanted to add a few things to help customers understand the documents they sign. In today#8217;s world, I do not blame customers at all for feeling uncomfortable about signing documents so I believe it is important to thoroughly explain the necessity of these documents and at a dealership especially there are so many forms to sign that it is easily to sign documents incorrectly or without full knowledge of what you are agreeing to. I hope this helps!
This was the best most informative post I have ever read, I really appreciate everyones contribution!
I am paying off my car loan next week. I have it with Capital One Auto Loans. I will give some time of reference of when I receive my security interest filing, when I get it. So from my understanding, techincally there is no MVA process that is needed to clear my title. I mean I guess it#8217;s not a requiement by law that I do. Unless there is an advantage to doing so. I looked up the fees in MD, and it#8217;s like $20 plus the time it takes to wait in line, which shouldn#8217;t be too bad if you went to MVA express#8230;
This was the exact question I had. I spoke to my lienholder, Honda financial sevices, and they told me I would have to take my Maryland Notice of Security Interest Filing to MVA to get the full title. I thought I would search for other solutions before heading to MVA and look what I have found out. Thanks alot!! I could have wasted my valueable time at MVA.
My fathers vehicle has been paid off in 2006. The title still has the lien on it so I need a whole new clear title. I bought the car. I have the lien release. It#8217;s a Maryland title. I#8217;m trying to register it to DC. I was told by the dmv to bring the security interest filling document, but we don#8217;t know where it is. It was so looking ago. The finance company on the title is Household Automotive. Household was bought by HSBC. HSBC was bought by santander. So they can#8217;t find the document. SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP. I NEED YOUR ADVICE.
This is the first vehicle that i have ever paid off but i got the same Notice of Security Filing, and a letter from the lien holder stating that my loan gas been paid in full. I received this almost a year ago.. Since then, I have relocated and registered my car in a different state.. What do i need to do just to get my regular title with no lien holders?? PLEASE HELP.
I am now not positive the place you are getting your information,
however great topic. I must spend a while finding out much more or understanding more.
Thanks for great information I was on the lookout for this
information for my mission.
I have finance (3) vehicles in the state of Maryland. All (3) vehicles are paid off.
The first vehicle that I bought it from Acura. they sent me the blue title to my home and it say lien on there till this day I have bought the vehicle in early of 2000. That one I financed it thru the Bank of Glen Burnie. I been fighting with these for years. Some body made the mistake but do not want to fix it and give me a clean title I been fighting for years. I may have to get my lawyer involved.
My second vehicle I bought from Ebay. I bought it from a auto broker local to me. That one I financed it thru Capitol One. They sent me a blue clean title to my home.
My Third vehicle that I just recently paid off the reaming 36 month. i bought it from a Used Chevrolet and Buick dealership in Florida and had it deliver to Maryland. I financed it thru a Federal Credit Union Bank, 6 weeks later I received no paper work or title. I went to the Credit Union. They told me they can see that the vehicle was paid off in full. They have to send it to the lien department and they would send me the pink slip to take it to MVA to get a clean title. This is the first time I heard of this usually they send me a clean blue title in the mail in 2-3 weeks time frame after you paid off a vehicle.
I pay when someone destroys my car
As annoying as it is to have people destroy your personal vehicle, they always had to pay for it. All the sudden I'm paying thousands in insurance premiums to get my cars back when other people destroy them. Wtf did R* do to insurance?
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They probably had/have no money to pay for it.
Yep, same thing has happened to me very recently. Guy blew up my car with his tank and I got stuck with the $10K bill. Friggin BS, and that's hardly the only time it's happened recently.
I know at one point, if anyone in a tank destroyed your personal vehicle, you ended up having to pay for it. It was a bug/glitch. If I remember correctly, that was one of the fixes listed in the notes to the update that happened before update 1.11.
Other than that, the only explanation I can think of is, what BIGG__KEV wrote. If a player cannot afford to pay for destroying your car, you have to cover the cost.
It's possible, but not likely imo. Most of the time it's someone 20+ levels higher (I'm at 61), in a fully modded Entity or other super car. I find it hard to believe someone who can drop a couple million on that wouldn't have a few grand to cover the cost of a premium for a sports car
you know what i do! i sit in my car in my garage and pretend that im driving it! 🙂
@mrteal4 It's possible, but not likely imo. Most of the time it's someone 20+ levels higher (I'm at 61), in a fully modded Entity or other super car. I find it hard to believe someone who can drop a couple million on that wouldn't have a few grand to cover the cost of a premium for a sports car
I guess I can say I was lucky, I blew some dude up who had a bounty in his entity and I got the bounty and he had to pay premium on his car and I didn't loose a cent, considering I have 800k and 20k on me at all time. :p
Lol thanks badjoke. I'll have to try that sometime. Can you make the engine sounds for me?
Whats most frustrating is when your're in passive mode driving around minding your own business, and someone sticky bombs your car and you pay for it or you are provoked by another player and then your car get impounded. That is not what a FUN game should be.
Rockstar should allow passive mode inside vehicles, if the driver in passive decides to run over people he would be charged a hospital bill that increases with each offense and be taken out of passive. Problem solved, Free Mode would be better this way.
@gta_deutschland2 Rockstar should allow passive mode inside vehicles, if the driver in passive decides to run over people he would be charged a hospital bill that increases with each offense and be taken out of passive. Problem solved, Free Mode would be better this way.
it should also count as being a bad sport as well.
I think they should reconsider this. Whatever money they do have should be applied towards your insurance bill and minused from the total. Better yet have it force them to pay for the car the next time they do a job, rob a store or whatever they do to make money. Very stupid to make us have to pay for something they can't afford at the time. If they've blown up hundreds of cars. Guess they'll be broke for a long time. Maybe it'll give them incentive not to do some stupid stuff they do.
@gta_deutschland2 Whats most frustrating is when your're in passive mode driving around minding your own business, and someone sticky bombs your car and you pay for it or you are provoked by another player and then your car get impounded. That is not what a FUN game should be.
Seemed like a no brainer from DAY ONE. Why they absurdly chose to make it so you're vulnerable to being shot and killed when you're behind the wheel is nonsensical, and why they haven't fixed it it with all of these patches is just ridiculous. We spend FAR more time driving our cars than we do standing on street corners doing nothing, yet somehow Rockstar thinks that Passive mode should only apply when you're out of your cars for some crazy reason. Sheer stupidity. This game would be MUCH more fun if everybody was invulnerable (from other players) by default, in or out of a vehicle, and if they want to kill and be killed by other players, they can turn that invulnerability off (though it should take at least 30 seconds to turn it off or on). Players that have turned it off, and are in PK mode, should have a different colored dot on the map (yellow, blue, orange, whatever), and their name above their head/car should also be in that color, so you can spot a PK'er nearby without having to look at the map. The game would be MUCH more fun, since you wouldn't have to have shoot first mentality every time you see someone, before they shoot and kill you, simply because they think you might kill them. It's a vicious cycle, and encourages if not practically demands that players kill each other. Why even bother with deathmatches, since players do almost nothing but kill each other in normal gameplay now, instead of gathering together and doing fun things in groups.
At first I was against this kind of idea but because there's people out there online that have the notion that if they don't have the money to pay for blowing up other peoples personal vehicles and forcing their victims to pay for their own car, I think a debt system does need to be in place for just this kind of thing. If someone decides to be a troll and go on a rampage and destroys someone's personal vehicle but doesn't have the money to fully pay for the replacement vehicle, then there needs to be a system that forces the perpetrator to sell off one of their own vehicles to not only pay for the victims replacement vehicle; but also give the victim a nice little payoff.
Now if only R* would do all these things. I think the invulnerability to other players is great, but there should be an auto-off if you decide to do something like attack an armoured truck, go after a crate, or one of the other things available to the whole lobby, cause fair is fair
@MehofMayhem I guess I can say I was lucky, I blew some dude up who had a bounty in his entity and I got the bounty and he had to pay premium on his car and I didn't loose a cent, considering I have 800k and 20k on me at all time. :p
If someone has a bounty on them, it's open season on their car.
Remember that next time some griefer kills you and set a bounty before you go after him.
well i know for sure that if a player empties their mags into your car without blowing it up but making the engine burn it will eventually burn out leaving you to pay the bill. tried it several times even tested it on my friend. it a annoying glitch that badsporters do.
Never knew that Spetznas, but that would explain one of them. Kinda wonder how that doesn't count. The rest have been from stickies or grenades though
They need to lock the weapon wheel at -1 GTA$ and restrict access to planes, helicopters, tanks until the offender pays off their debt. That would stop the no money griefers. And for crying out loud would you make tank drivers responsible for blowing up other players cars already.
That's happened to me at least 4 times since the new DLC/update. Cost me over 50 grand. Also, the new mental state bs is making things worse because now EVERYONE is constantly on a killing spree. the pessimist in me thinks this is a scheme to get more people to buy in-game cash. Please fix the game . I loved playing it but now it's just annoying.
I have the same exact problem all the time. It's a load of bs that I have to pay for my car to be replaced when someone else destroyed it. I say if you can't pay it in full because your broke you should be forced to sell one of your personal items to make up for the money you owe. Last week I spent some odd $10,000 because I was playing with my friends and some random person used the homing missile on me. I think they should make it fair. I always pay in full when I destroy other's cars I don't see why they can't do the same. I also think should monitor when people destroy a number of cars in a short period of time and check whether they pay in full. If not they should have a temporary ban from GTA Online.
My mate destroyed my car twice he in my crew and he got landed $4000 twice. The problem with v is eBay selling modded accounts for £5 and giving you unlocked everything and $10billion. I tend to play invite only and do my own thing as too many modders blow everyone up in the game in 1 hit. Rockstar are banning exploiters with 1000 year bans now. They need to fix the glitches and reset the servers
My New Used Car #8211; Almost Paid Off
In my last post I shared that the State of Arizona had intercepted our tax refund, thankfully the problem was resolved quickly. The balance remaining ($421) landed in our checking account last Friday, so I did not pursue charging them for fees, interest or penalties.
I had originally planned for our tax refund to pay off my car. That was before I was done with our taxes. While putting the numbers into the tax software, it looked like we would be getting back more than $3000. But I had not yet looked to see if we owed estimated taxes. Last year Mr. A#8217;s business really struggled and actually went in the hole, which reduced our tax liability. But this year things are looking up so as I was finishing up our taxes I put in the numbers to see how much money we might owe next year in April and it turned out to be quite a large amount. We decided it would be best to have the IRS keep $2000 of our refund and apply toward estimated taxes.
Our refund from both federal and state came to $1356. The little car cost $1750, and right now the balance on our line of credit is $867. Once I apply the $421 (which arrived Friday), we will still owe $446.
I have not yet been able to start driving the car! As soon as I am able, the amount I#8217;m saving in gas can be applied toward the balance due. The main reason I have not yet begun driving the car is because of the minor problem I mentioned that we discovered while test driving the vehicle. It had a water leak and Mr. A originally thought it was the water pump, but as it turns out there is a problem with this vehicle in this year and the intake manifold had to be replaced. Once Mr. A got down into the engine, he couldn#8217;t just quickly put it back together as the insides were coated with thick black tar-like sludge. There were several areas that were just clogged with what looked like mud, while other areas were sealed shut. He worked on my car when he could find the spare time, and finally he got it all back together. I am sure it is going to run really great now that it has been so thoroughly cleaned. We started it up and it runs great.
The second reason is because I wanted to do something about the carpet, which was filthy. I had found a place online where you can buy brand new carpeting formed to fit the vehicle and it was going to cost around $200 to replace. I was seriously considering it because the carpet was just disgusting and even though I could cover most of it with floor mats, there was still the stench factor. I really didn#8217;t want to spend more money and Mr. A suggested that we remove the carpet and wash it. I had not considered that, even though I had such a phenomenal outcome with cleaning my bedroom carpet using Fels Naptha. Here are before and after photos of my bedroom carpet.
When Mr. A suggested cleaning the carpet, I thought that was a really good idea. I probably wouldn#8217;t have been too happy with the new carpet anyway as it would have been off-gassing chemicals. So we set about removing the carpet, which meant the seats had to be removed. It#8217;s quite a huge undertaking. The next day I started cleaning the carpet, which Mr. A had thrown over a fence. I scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed. It looks almost brand new, and then we let it dry thoroughly.
It#8217;s not back in the car yet though. I told my employer that I had found a car, and he told me there was no hurry for me to stop driving the van, so that is a relief.
The third reason is because the car is not in my name yet. I stopped by Motor Vehicle to get it switched over because it is one of the few things that must be done in person. And wouldn#8217;t you know it, the computer system for the entire state went down after I#8217;d been there ten minutes. The lady helping me apologized profusely and gave me a slip of paper that is supposed to get me right to the front of the line when I go in again. I did get insurance coverage already, and that is going to cost around $100 more for six months.
I wanted to post an update to let you know I#8217;m still here and trying to get out of debt one day at a time. I would like to post more, but my #8220;day#8221; job is sucking time away from me worse than YouTube (you know what a time sucker that site can be?). Our auditors are due to arrive in about three weeks, and I am going to have to work every single day in an attempt to get caught up. So I may be missing in action this month of October. I will try to post at least once a week.
I definitely will share a post showing the before and after photos of the carpet cleaning in the little car, and I#8217;m anxious to see what kind of gas mileage she will get.
My Vehicle is a Write-off #8211; Now What?
There are approximately 150,000 automobile collisions in Canada every year. In a substantial number of cases, at least one of the vehicles involved is damaged beyond repair. Hopefully, this never happens to you, but in this article we#8217;ll discuss what happens when a vehicle is damaged beyond repair in a collision and what your rights and responsibilities are as a consumer.
What to do if you#8217;re involved in a collision
If you#8217;re involved in a collision in which your car is severely damaged, you must immediately report the accident to the police. If you can do so safely, move your vehicle off the road and out of the line of traffic. Turn on your hazard lights or use cones or warning triangles if you have them.
You should record as many details of the accident as you can while the incident is still fresh in your mind, including:
Other helpful tips are:
What Happens When Your Vehicle is a Total Loss?
After the accident, an insurance claims adjuster will inspect your vehicle and determine whether it can be repaired or whether it is labelled a total loss. A vehicle is considered to be a total loss (or a write-off) when the cost of repairs is greater than the current value of the vehicle. It may also be considered a total loss if the necessary repairs can#8217;t be carried out safely or economically.
If you#8217;re in an at fault accident, and you have purchased Collision coverage, and your policy is in good order, your insurance company will pay for the cost of replacing the vehicle based on its current value, minus your deductible. If you#8217;re not at fault you are covered under the Direct Compensation coverage of your policy.
How is the Settlement Amount Determined?
The current value of the vehicle is considered to be the amount that the vehicle could have reasonably been sold for prior to the claim. The value is determined by the retail selling price of a similar vehicle, while taking into account considerations such as mileage, condition of the vehicle, upgrades, prior damage and so on.
If your vehicle is considered a write off, your insurance company will calculate the vehicle#8217;s cash value, including taxes and offer you a cash settlement for that amount. It is then your responsibility to buy a replacement car with the cash settlement.
The insurance company takes possession of your written-off vehicle, and brands it according to one of two classifications based on the extent of the damage:
What if I want to keep my car?
If you want to keep your damaged vehicle after your claim has been settled, you can request that your insurance company allow you to keep it. In this case, your cash settlement will be reduced by the amount the insurance company would have recouped by salvaging the vehicle. Keep in mind that if your car has been branded as irreparable9quot;, you can never repair and drive it, you will only be allowed to salvage it for parts.
Salvage9quot; vehicles must be repaired and pass a rigorous inspection before they can be legally driven. In the vast majority of cases, it simply doesn#8217;t make financial sense to keep your damaged vehicle.
What if I Disagree With the Cash Settlement?
If you disagree with the amount of the cash settlement you receive for your car, you have the option of discussing the matter with your claims representative. Before you do so, you should gather as much information as you can to prove your argument, and make sure you have receipts and signed statements to verify your claims.
Other information that may be considered relevant to your claim would include proof of the actual prices of similar vehicles from car dealers or trade magazines, or blue book value. It#8217;s best to list several prices to give a realistic value range.
If you#8217;ve had work done on the vehicle that increases its value, you should let your insurance company know and provide documentation. Work that increases your vehicle#8217;s value includes upgrades or additions to your vehicle, but does not include the normal repairs that are required to keep the car running smoothly.
If you and your insurance company disagree on the value of the car, you have the right to seek arbitration. Arbitration is the process of bringing in a neutral third party to settle the dispute. The arbitrator will examine the facts of the case and make a decision in favour of the consumer or the insurance company. Arbitration may or may not be binding on the parties involved, depending on your original agreement.
If you still disagree, and the Arbitrator#8217;s decision is not binding, you can contact the General Insurance OmbudService (GIO) for dispute resolution. This service is completely free of charge and is available to any insurance policy holder in Canada. As a last resort, you can seek outside legal advice.
Hopefully, you will never be involved in a collision that involves the complete loss of your car, but in all cases, the best course of action is to communicate clearly with your insurance representative and make sure they are aware of all the facts in your case. If you have any questions, your insurance representative can answer them or find you the information you need.